Recirculation Control Motor Test

WARNING: This page is about a different car, the 2011 Honda CR-V, 2010 Honda CR-V, 2009 Honda CR-V, 2008 Honda CR-V, and 2007 Honda CR-V. However, it is still accessible from the selected car via links, so may be relevant.

NOTE: Before testing the motor, check for HVAC DTCs (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ).

Disconnect the 7P connector from the recirculation control motor.
NOTE: Incorrectly applying power and ground to the recirculation control motor will damage it. Follow the instructions carefully.
Connect battery power to the terminal No. 1 of the recirculation control motor, and ground the terminal No. 2; the recirculation control motor should run, and stop at Recirculate. If it doesn't, reverse the connections; the recirculation control motor should run, and stop at Fresh. When the recirculation control motor stops running, disconnect battery power immediately.

Fig 1: Identifying Recirculation Control Motor Terminal Layout
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
If the recirculation control motor did not run in step 2, remove it, then check the recirculation control linkage and door for smooth movement.
- If the linkage and door move smoothly, replace the recirculation control motor (see RECIRCULATION CONTROL MOTOR REPLACEMENT ).
- If the linkage or door sticks or binds, repair them as needed.
- If the recirculation control motor runs smoothly, go to step 4.
Measure the resistance between the terminals No. 5 and No. 7 of the recirculation control motor. It should be between 4.2 and 7.8 kΩ.
Reconnect the recirculation control motor 7P connector, then turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
Using the backprobe set, measure the voltage between the terminals No. 3 and No. 7.
Recirculate: Fresh:

About 4.0 V About 1.0 V
If either the resistance or voltage readings are not as specified, replace the recirculation control motor (see RECIRCULATION CONTROL MOTOR REPLACEMENT ).